The Taj Mahal (Agra)

The Taj Mahal was built by Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal emperor, as the tomb for his second wife, Arjumand Bano Begum, or Mumtaz Mahal. They were married in 1612, sixteen years before Shah Jahan began his rule, and she died in 1631 in childbirth. Shah Jahan had planned to build his own tomb, a black onyx mirror of the Taj Mahal across the river, but his youngest son, Aurangzeb feared that its construction would bankrupt the kingdom. Aurangzeb prevented that possibility by killing his three older brothers, taking control of the empire, and imprisoning his father until he died, eight years later.

After the striking white marble with which the Taj Mahal is constructed, symmetry is its next most conspicuous feature. The entire structure, from the Taj Mahal itself, to the enclosing walls and buildings seems in perfect order. The mosque located directly west of the Taj Mahal even has a counterpart on the east side--necessarily used for other functions as its orientation to Mecca is not correct. Large expanses of the Taj Mahal itself are inlaid with floral patterns and verses from the Quran in semiprecious stones, from as far as Baghdad and Russia.

The Mughals Empire was founded by Babur in 1526 and declined after the end of Aurangzeb's rule in 1707. Many of the most impressive monuments--tombs, forts, and palaces--in the areas surrounding Delhi were constructed during this time. Agra Fort, precursor to Red Fort in Delhi is a beautiful example of the evolving architecture.

The outer and inner walls that surround Agra Fort, 30 and 70 feet high, respectively, are constructed of red sandstone that was quarried nearby, as are the older sections of the palace. Shah Jahan's material of choice was white marble, from Jaipur in Rajasthan some 400 kilometers distant, which he retrofitted into the older parts of the palace and used entirely for his own additions. A sense of regal imagination is evident throughout, from the emperor's quarters themselves to several mosques and a bazaar. The buildings were designed to stay cool in the summer and a system of elevated water tanks fed water streams and fountains that flowed around the palace.

Agra is not far from Delhi, only 200 kilometers, and many people take day tours here. I have found Agra itself quite pleasant--much more laid back than Delhi. There are people here who are actually interested in conversation without ulterior motive. Indians also seem to want to have their picture taken with foreigners. I think I was asked to pose with vacationing Indians five or six times. If you ever find yourself here in Agra searching for budget accommodations with a phenomenal rooftop view of the Taj Mahal, I'd recommend Shanti Lodge. Just be sure to bring a mosquito net--sleeping in DEET is gross.

Tonight I take the overnight train to Varanasi, the city of Shiva, on the Ganges river, which one of my friends back home describes as one of the craziest cities in the world.